Ah, the enchantment of cinema, the grandeur of period pieces, and the subtle art of costume design! Let’s wind back the clock to 1987—a year that bestowed upon us the gem that is “Maurice.” Directed by the legendary James Ivory, this film is not only a heartfelt narrative of love and self-discovery but also a visual feast of Edwardian fashion. I have to confess, the sartorial elegance displayed in this film had me at the edge of my velvet chaise longue, clutching my pearls in sheer admiration.
The aesthetics of “Maurice” are a harmonious blend of authenticity and artistry. From lush countryside scenes to the hallowed halls of Cambridge, every frame oozes with period charm. The costumes, designed by Jenny Beavan and John Bright, are a testament to the film’s meticulous attention to detail. They aren’t just clothes; they’re historical whispers, telling tales of societal norms and personal expressions.
To truly understand the magnetic pull of this film’s visuals, we must recognize the power of its setting. The early 20th century was a time of restraint and yet, unspoken desires. The costumes reflect this duality—the stiff collars and structured suits are the armor of the time, while the occasional indulgence in fabric and color hints at the characters’ inner worlds. It’s a dance of the said and unsaid, all woven into the fabric of their garments.
Importance of Character Analysis and Style Breakdown
Diving into character analysis and style breakdown is akin to being a fashion archaeologist. We excavate layers of personality, societal influences, and historical context to understand the sartorial choices of each character. It’s not just about what they’re wearing; it’s about why they’re wearing it. These choices speak volumes about the characters’ status, their inner conflicts, and their journeys throughout the narrative.
A deep dive into Maurice’s costume design is particularly insightful. It allows us to see beyond the surface of the film’s lush visuals and delve into the psyche of its characters. In understanding their style, we uncover hidden facets of their personalities and their relationships with one another. It’s a way to connect with the characters on a level that transcends dialogue and plot.
Moreover, fashion is an ever-evolving beast, and period pieces like “Maurice” are a treasure trove of inspiration. By breaking down the styles of the past, we can resurrect them in modern attire. It’s an exciting challenge to reinterpret these looks for today’s fashion scene, infusing our daily wardrobe with a touch of timeless elegance.
Overview of ‘Maurice (1987)’ Aesthetic
Before we dissect individual styles, let’s soak in the overarching aesthetic of “Maurice.” The film is set in the Edwardian era, a period that straddled the line between Victorian propriety and the impending freedom of the Roaring Twenties. This transitional quality is mirrored in the characters’ attire—there’s a strict adherence to formality, yet the silhouettes begin to soften, signaling a shift towards modernity.
The men of “Maurice” are swathed in the quintessential attire of the English gentleman. Tailored three-piece suits, crisp shirts, and ascot ties are the order of the day, each piece meticulously crafted to convey status and sophistication. However, it’s the subtleties—the cut of the lapel, the choice of waistcoat, the drape of the trousers—that differentiate one man from another.
The film’s color palette is a delicate play of earthy tones and muted hues, interrupted by the occasional burst of rich color. These choices are not random; they’re carefully orchestrated to align with the narrative’s emotional beats. An autumnal palette reflects the characters’ internal struggles, while brighter colors celebrate moments of joy and intimacy.
Fabrics are selected with equal consideration. Heavier materials like wool and tweed dominate the outdoor scenes, symbolizing protection and durability. In contrast, intimate indoor moments often feature softer, more luxurious textiles, creating an atmosphere of vulnerability and closeness.
James Wilby as Maurice Hall
– The Tailored Three-Piece Suit: The backbone of Maurice Hall’s wardrobe is the impeccably tailored three-piece suit. James Wilby dons a variety of these throughout the film, each one crafted to enhance his character’s respectability and social standing. The suit comprises a single-breasted jacket, a waistcoat, and matching trousers—all cut from the finest fabrics.
– Crisp White Shirts and Ascot Ties: You’ll rarely see Maurice without a crisp white shirt, its stiff collar framing his face like a picture-perfect portrait. Paired with an ascot tie—a symbol of upper-class fashion—this combination is a nod to the era’s formality and Maurice’s adherence to social expectations.
– The Overcoat and Accessories: No Edwardian gentleman’s ensemble would be complete without an overcoat. Maurice’s are long, structured, and often in darker shades, providing a stark contrast to the lighter tones of his suits. Accessories like pocket watches, cufflinks, and leather shoes are the finishing touches that pull the look together.
Hugh Grant as Clive Durham
– The Academic Influence: Hugh Grant’s Clive Durham is the epitome of academic chic. His style is a blend of scholarly austerity and youthful experimentation. You’ll spot him in Cambridge-appropriate attire—tweed jackets, knitted vests, and the occasional bow tie, all hinting at his intellectual pursuits.
– Subtle Use of Color and Pattern: Clive’s wardrobe, while predominantly conservative, allows for subtle expressions of individuality. Patterns like pinstripes and checks make strategic appearances, while the restrained use of color—think deep blues and greens—adds depth to his outfits without straying too far from the norm.
– The Relaxed Silhouette: As Clive’s character evolves, so does his silhouette. The stiffness of his earlier attire gives way to a more relaxed fit, reflecting his inner turmoil and the gradual loosening of societal constraints. It’s a visual journey from rigidity to liberation, told through the language of clothes.
Rupert Graves as Alec Scudder
– The Working-Class Charm: Rupert Graves’ portrayal of Alec Scudder is a breath of fresh air in the starched world of “Maurice.” His attire is a reflection of his working-class roots—practical, durable, and devoid of the frills that adorn his wealthier counterparts. Yet, there’s an undeniable charm to his simplicity.
– Earthy Tones and Robust Fabrics: Alec’s clothing is a palette of earthy tones—browns, greens, and grays that blend seamlessly with the rural landscapes he inhabits. The fabrics are robust, meant to withstand the rigors of physical work, and his garments have a lived-in quality that speaks of authenticity.
– The Subtle Shift: While Alec’s style remains consistent, there’s a subtle shift when he’s in Maurice’s presence. A touch more polish, a slightly better fit—these nuances reveal Alec’s desire to bridge the gap between their worlds. It’s a testament to the power of clothing as a form of nonverbal communication.
Denholm Elliott as Doctor Barry
– The Professional’s Wardrobe: Denholm Elliott’s Doctor Barry is the very image of an Edwardian professional. His wardrobe is a collection of dark, somber suits that communicate authority and expertise. The sharp tailoring and restrained accessories underscore his position in society.
– The Doctor’s Signature Look: Doctor Barry’s signature look is a frock coat—a style that denotes formality and respectability. Paired with a waistcoat and a tie, it’s a uniform that commands respect while allowing for a hint of personal flair through the choice of textures and subtle patterns.
– The Importance of Detail: In the details of Doctor Barry’s attire, we find hints of the man behind the profession. The occasional flourish—a brightly colored tie, an ornately patterned waistcoat—suggests a personality that’s richer and more complex than his outward demeanor might imply.
Simon Callow as Mr. Ducie
– The Educator’s Ensemble: Simon Callow’s Mr. Ducie is a figure steeped in tradition, and his clothing reflects this. His suits are cut in a conservative fashion, with a preference for dark colors that convey seriousness and a commitment to his educational role.
– Textural Play: While color remains subdued in Mr. Ducie’s wardrobe, texture plays a significant role. Fabrics like herringbone and tweed add a tactile dimension to his outfits, hinting at a depth of character that goes beyond the academic exterior.
– The Accessorized Academic: Mr. Ducie’s accessories are chosen with care. His glasses, pocket squares, and tie pins are not just functional; they’re symbols of his status and his dedication to the scholarly life. Each piece contributes to the image of the educator, both respected and imposing.
Billie Whitelaw as Mrs. Hall
– The Matriarch’s Attire: Billie Whitelaw’s Mrs. Hall is the quintessential Edwardian matriarch, and her attire is a testament to her role. Her dresses are structured, with high necklines and long sleeves that speak to the era’s standards of modesty. The silhouette is controlled, yet there’s a grace to her movements that’s accentuated by her clothing.
– The Use of Color and Fabric: Mrs. Hall’s wardrobe may not be as colorful as that of the younger generation, but it’s far from drab. Shades of navy, burgundy, and forest green add a richness to her attire, while the use of lace and silk introduces a feminine softness that belies her often stern demeanor.
– The Detailing of Decorum: The details in Mrs. Hall’s outfits serve a dual purpose—they uphold the decorum expected of her status while allowing her personal taste to shine through. Embroidery, brooches, and the occasional ruffle are not merely decorative; they’re expressions of her identity within the confines of societal expectations.
Barry Foster as Dean Cornwallis
– The Academic Authority: Barry Foster’s Dean Cornwallis exudes authority and academia. His style is one of deliberate formality, with robes and caps that denote his high position within the university. The traditional academic dress is a uniform that sets him apart from students and signifies his role as an educator and leader.
– The Richness of Robes: The Dean’s robes are rich in both color and texture. The deep blacks and purples of his garments are symbols of power and knowledge, while the velvet and silk fabrics convey a sense of luxury and prestige that comes with his position.
– The Insignia of Office: Cornwallis’s attire is often embellished with the insignia of his office. These are not just decorative elements; they are badges of honor, reflecting his achievements and his place within the academic hierarchy. Each piece, from the tassels to the embroidered crests, tells a story of tradition and respect.
Styling Tips for Different Occasions Inspired by the Characters
Casual Outings:
- Embrace Tweed and Knits: For a casual yet refined look, take inspiration from Clive Durham’s academic wardrobe. Incorporate tweed jackets and knitted vests into your outfit for a touch of scholarly charm.
- Layer with Purpose: Like Maurice Hall, use layering to your advantage. A well-fitted waistcoat can elevate a simple shirt and trousers combo, giving it an Edwardian twist without feeling costumey.
- Accessorize with Subtlety: Don’t forget the power of accessories. A leather watch strap or a vintage-inspired brooch can add character to your ensemble, much like the subtle details in Doctor Barry’s professional attire.
Formal Events:
- Invest in Tailoring: For formal occasions, follow Maurice’s lead with a tailored three-piece suit. The fit is everything, so ensure your suit is adjusted to your measurements for a polished look.
- Opt for Classic Silhouettes: Take a cue from Mrs. Hall’s structured dresses with high necklines and long sleeves. Choose modern pieces with similar silhouettes that exude elegance and poise.
- Rich Fabrics and Colors: Echo the richness of Dean Cornwallis’s robes with luxurious fabrics like velvet and silk. Deep colors such as burgundy or navy can add a touch of sophistication to your formal wear.
Work Attire:
- The Professional’s Palette: For work, adopt Doctor Barry’s professional palette. Stick to darker, more subdued colors but play with textures to keep your look interesting.
- The Perfect Fit: Ensure your work suits are well-tailored, much like Mr. Ducie’s. A great fit can make all the difference in conveying confidence and competence.
- Distinctive Details: Incorporate distinctive details like a statement tie or a unique pair of glasses to add personality to your workwear without compromising on professionalism.
Where to Buy Outfits Inspired by Maurice (1987)
Now, where to procure these Edwardian-inspired treasures, you ask? Fear not, for I have scoured the land (and the internet) to bring you the finest establishments offering attire that echoes the style of “Maurice.”
- Vintage Shops and Thrift Stores: Begin your sartorial hunt at vintage shops and thrift stores. They are goldmines for period pieces and accessories that can be mixed and matched to create your own “Maurice” inspired look.
- Bespoke Tailors: For those willing to invest, bespoke tailors can craft suits and dresses that hark back to the film’s aesthetic. It’s a pricier option, but the personalized fit and attention to detail are unparalleled.
- Online Retailers: Online retailers are a convenient option for finding Edwardian-esque clothing. Websites like Etsy offer vintage and handmade items, while specialty stores cater to those looking for period-specific attire.
How to Include Elements of ‘Maurice (1987)’ Style in Daily Outfits
Incorporating elements of “Maurice” style into your daily outfits doesn’t require a complete wardrobe overhaul. It’s about infusing your look with touches of Edwardian elegance. Here’s how:
- Start with the Basics: Look for classic pieces with a modern twist—such as a button-down shirt with a high collar or trousers with a subtle herringbone pattern.
- Add Layers: Layer your outfits as Maurice and his peers do. A vest or cardigan can add depth to your look while providing a nod to the film’s layered aesthetic.
- Accessorize Wisely: Accessories are your secret weapon. A vintage watch, an art deco brooch, or even a pair of round spectacles can add an old-world charm to your contemporary wardrobe.
- Mind the Details: Pay attention to details like stitching, buttons, and fabric quality. These small touches can evoke the film’s meticulous costume design.
- Mix and Match: Don’t be afraid to mix period-inspired items with modern clothing. It’s the blend of old and new that creates a unique and personal style.
Conclusion: Embracing Maurice (1987) Aesthetic in Your Wardrobe
As we conclude our chic dive into the aesthetic and style breakdown of “Maurice (1987),” it’s clear that the film offers more than just a visual treat—it presents a timeless sartorial narrative that continues to inspire. Whether you’re drawn to Maurice Hall’s tailored elegance, Clive Durham’s academic flair, or Alec Scudder’s rustic simplicity, there’s something in this film’s wardrobe for everyone.
Remember, fashion is a playground, and period pieces like “Maurice” are the slides and swings that invite us to explore. By incorporating elements of the film’s style into our daily outfits, we pay homage to a bygone era while expressing our individuality. So go ahead, riffle through your closet, visit your local vintage store, or commission a bespoke piece. It’s time to let the aesthetic of “Maurice (1987)” infuse your wardrobe with a dash of Edwardian chic.
Share your unique style tips in the comments and revisit us for the latest updates on fashion advice and exclusive deals! Your wardrobe is a canvas, and with a sprinkle of “Maurice” magic, you’re well on your way to creating a masterpiece.
