When Agnieszka Holland brought Frances Hodgson Burnett’s beloved novel, ‘The Secret Garden,’ to the silver screen in 1993, she did more than just tell a story; she painted a world lush with symbolism, emotion, and an evocative sartorial palette that still resonates with audiences today. The costumes of ‘The Secret Garden’ are more than mere garments; they are threads woven into the very fabric of the characters, offering insights into their development and the era’s ethos. I’ve always been fascinated by the power of clothing in storytelling, and ‘The Secret Garden’ serves as a prime example of how costume design can be as pivotal as dialogue.
The film, set in the early 20th century, not only captures the essence of the Edwardian period but also reflects each character’s journey through meticulously crafted attire. As a fashion blogger and movie buff, I find myself repeatedly drawn to the enchanting wardrobe choices that speak volumes about the characters’ inner worlds. The sartorial significance of ‘The Secret Garden’ lies not just in its historical accuracy but in its ability to convey mood, transformation, and the subtle interplay between nature and nurture.
To fully appreciate the film’s aesthetic, one must delve into the details of each character’s wardrobe. These costumes tell a story of their own, serving as a visual character analysis that complements the narrative arc. From Mary Lennox’s somber dresses to Colin Craven’s transformational attire, each outfit is a key to understanding the souls beneath the surface. So, let’s pull back the curtain on this secret wardrobe and unravel the style stories locked within the garden walls.
Overview of ‘The Secret Garden (1993)’ Aesthetic
The Lush Palette of Misselthwaite Manor: The film’s setting, Misselthwaite Manor, is as much a character as the people inhabiting it. The manor’s cold, imposing stone structure is offset by the vibrant, life-affirming secret garden. The costumes reflect this stark contrast, with the manor’s inhabitants initially draped in muted tones that echo their suppressed emotions and the grayness of their environment. As the garden begins to flourish, so do the characters, with their attire blossoming into warmer, richer colors.
Edwardian Elegance and Its Constraints: The Edwardian era’s fashion is characterized by its elegance and formality. Women’s fashion featured corseted waists, flared skirts, and elaborate hats, while men donned structured suits and stiff collars. In ‘The Secret Garden,’ these period-accurate costumes also symbolize the constraints the characters face—both socially and personally. The children’s clothing, in particular, mirrors their journey from confinement towards liberation.
Symbolism Sewn Into Fabric: Costume designer Marit Allen used fabric and color to symbolize each character’s arc. Mary’s evolution from a neglected child to a nurturer is reflected in the softening of her wardrobe, while Colin’s transition from sickly to spirited is mirrored in the changing textures and hues of his clothing. The attention to detail is meticulous, with each lace trim and button serving a purpose in the visual storytelling.
The aesthetic of ‘The Secret Garden’ is a masterclass in using fashion as a narrative device. The film’s visuals are a feast for the eyes and a source of inspiration for anyone interested in the intersection of film and fashion. Next, we’ll explore how each character’s style contributes to the tapestry of this timeless tale.
Kate Maberly as Mary Lennox
The Transformation of Mary Lennox: Mary Lennox begins her journey as a sullen, spoiled child, dressed in dark, constrictive clothing that mirrors her closed-off heart. As she discovers the secret garden and begins to nurture it, her wardrobe undergoes a transformation. Her dresses become lighter, adorned with floral patterns and softer fabrics, echoing her blooming connection to the world around her.
Dressing in Solitude to Social Butterfly: Initially, Mary’s attire is practical yet plain, designed to be unobtrusive and almost blending into the background of her lonely existence. As she forms bonds with Colin and Dickon, her clothing becomes more vibrant and varied, showcasing her growing confidence and openness to forming relationships.
The Subtle Shifts in Mary’s Wardrobe: The shifts in Mary’s wardrobe are subtle but significant. The introduction of lighter colors, looser fits, and the occasional ribbon or flower in her hair represent her gradual emotional thawing. Her final outfits in the film are a far cry from the dark, heavy fabrics of her first appearance, symbolizing her full transformation into a child who has found love, friendship, and a sense of belonging.
Kate Maberly’s portrayal of Mary Lennox is a beautiful blend of acting and costume storytelling. The wardrobe choices for Mary are a delicate dance between the character’s internal struggles and her external environment, making her sartorial journey a pivotal aspect of the film’s narrative.
Heydon Prowse as Colin Craven
Colin’s Illness and Isolation Reflected in Attire: Colin Craven’s character is initially defined by his physical frailty and emotional isolation, which is starkly reflected in his attire. Swathed in pale, sickly colors and confined to his bed, Colin’s clothing is as imprisoning as his room in the manor. The garments are fine, as befits the son of a lord, but they are also structured and stiff, emphasizing his fragility and the suffocating care he receives.
The Metamorphosis of Colin’s Style: As Colin begins to venture outside and embrace the healing powers of the secret garden, his style metamorphoses along with his health. The once bedridden boy starts wearing suits that allow for more movement, with colors that echo the garden’s vitality. The transformation is not just physical but sartorial—Colin is shedding his sickly past for a vigorous present and future.
The Final Flourish of Freedom: By the film’s end, Colin’s clothing is almost unrecognizable from his initial wardrobe. The colors are bright; the fabrics are lighter, and there is a sense of ease and freedom in his movement that his earlier, more constricting clothes did not permit. His final scenes in the garden, surrounded by nature and dressed in earthy tones, signify his complete recovery and newfound zest for life.
Heydon Prowse’s portrayal of Colin Craven is an emotional journey that’s beautifully echoed in his evolving wardrobe. The character’s style breakdown is a testament to the transformative power of nurturing and nature—a theme at the very heart of ‘The Secret Garden.’
Andrew Knott as Dickon
Dickon’s Connection to Nature: Dickon, played by Andrew Knott, is the embodiment of the moors and the secret garden that he helps Mary and Colin cultivate. His wardrobe is an array of earth tones, sturdy fabrics, and practical garments that reflect his role as the garden’s caretaker and a friend of the wild. His clothes are not just attire; they are tools that help him interact with the natural world.
The Sturdiness and Simplicity of Dickon’s Garb: Unlike the other children, Dickon’s clothes are not about transformation but about consistency. They are simple, durable, and devoid of the frills that characterize Edwardian fashion. They speak to his grounded nature and his comfort with his place in the world. His style is a fixed point, much like the moors themselves, offering stability and constancy.
The Timelessness of Dickon’s Outfit: Dickon’s outfit, with its neutral colors and classic cuts, has a timeless quality that transcends the film’s historical setting. His look could easily be adapted to a modern context, which is perhaps why it resonates with audiences even today. His wardrobe is a reflection of his character—uncomplicated, reliable, and in harmony with the environment.
Andrew Knott’s portrayal of Dickon is a masterful display of how a character’s clothing can speak volumes about their personality and values. Dickon’s style breakdown is a nod to the beauty of simplicity and the enduring appeal of garments that serve a purpose beyond mere adornment.
Maggie Smith as Mrs. Medlock
The Rigid Regality of Mrs. Medlock: Maggie Smith’s Mrs. Medlock is an imposing figure, with her wardrobe playing a crucial role in establishing her stern demeanor. Her dresses are as rigid and structured as her personality, with high collars, severe lines, and a color palette that commands respect and maintains distance. Her attire is the epitome of Edwardian propriety—perfectly tailored and unyielding.
The Symbolism in Mrs. Medlock’s Costumes: The symbolism in Mrs. Medlock’s costumes is hard to miss. She is the keeper of Misselthwaite’s order, and her clothing reflects this through its meticulous construction and lack of frivolity. Every piece she wears is chosen to reinforce her authority and the status quo within the manor’s walls.
The Unchanging Nature of Mrs. Medlock’s Wardrobe: Unlike the children, Mrs. Medlock’s wardrobe does not undergo a significant transformation. Her style remains consistent throughout the film, emphasizing her resistance to change and her role as an enforcer of tradition. Her outfits are a visual representation of the barriers she upholds against the emotional and physical freedom that the secret garden represents.
Maggie Smith’s portrayal of Mrs. Medlock is a testament to the power of costume design in shaping audience perception. Her character analysis and style breakdown reveal a woman bound by duty and tradition, with her wardrobe serving as her armor against the world’s unpredictability.
Laura Crossley as Martha
Martha’s Homely Approachability: Martha, portrayed by Laura Crossley, is a breath of fresh air in the austere environment of Misselthwaite Manor. Her wardrobe is simple and unpretentious, mirroring her warm and approachable personality. She wears practical, no-nonsense clothing that allows her to perform her duties comfortably and efficiently.
The Practicality and Warmth in Martha’s Clothing: Martha’s clothing is practical, with aprons and sturdy shoes, but it also carries a warmth that is welcoming. Her dresses, often in soft, earthy tones, suggest a connection to the surrounding Yorkshire landscape. Her style is a mix of workwear and modest femininity, which makes her both relatable and endearing to the other characters, especially Mary.
Subtle Changes Reflecting Personal Growth: Throughout the film, subtle changes in Martha’s wardrobe reflect her personal growth and the influence of the secret garden. While her attire remains consistent with her station and the era’s expectations, there is an added brightness and a touch of adornment towards the film’s end that hints at her own blossoming, paralleling the garden’s transformation.
Laura Crossley’s portrayal of Martha is a beautiful illustration of how a secondary character’s wardrobe can enhance their role in the story. Martha’s character analysis and style breakdown depict a young woman who is grounded yet open to the changes unfolding around her, with her clothing choices subtly reflecting her journey.
John Lynch as Lord Archibald Craven
The Grieving Widower’s Attire: John Lynch’s Lord Archibald Craven is a man haunted by grief, and his wardrobe is a reflection of his inner turmoil. Draped in dark, heavy fabrics, his clothing is both a shield against the world and a shroud for his sorrow. The severe tailoring and muted colors of his suits create an aura of melancholy and distance.
The Weight of Responsibility on Lord Craven’s Shoulders: The weight of his responsibilities as the manor’s lord and Colin’s father is evident in Lord Craven’s sartorial choices. His clothing is formal and imposing, befitting his status, but also symbolic of the burdens he carries. His style is conservative, with little variation, underscoring his inability to move past his wife’s death.
A Subtle Softening of Style: As the film progresses, there is a subtle softening of Lord Craven’s style. It’s most noticeable when he returns to the manor near the film’s end, and the influence of the secret garden begins to reach him. The slight lightening of his attire’s color palette and the less structured tailoring suggest a man slowly opening up to the possibility of healing and happiness.
John Lynch’s portrayal of Lord Archibald Craven shows how a character’s wardrobe can be an extension of their emotional state. His character analysis and style breakdown reveal a man shrouded in grief, with his clothing serving as both a reflection of his mourning and an indication of his potential for renewal.
Walter Sparrow as Ben Weatherstaff
Ben Weatherstaff’s Gardener Garb: Walter Sparrow’s Ben Weatherstaff is the curmudgeonly gardener with a heart of gold, and his attire is as earthy and unrefined as the soil he tills. His clothes are functional, designed for labor, and show the wear and tear of his trade. His style is utilitarian, with little concern for fashion or trends, focusing solely on practicality.
The Ruggedness and Reliability of Ben’s Clothing: Ben’s wardrobe is rugged and reliable, much like the character himself. His heavy boots, tweed jackets, and worn hats are not just clothing; they are the tools of his trade. His garments are layered and protective, shielding him from the elements as he cares for the grounds of Misselthwaite.
Steadfast Style Reflecting Steadfast Character: There is a steadfast quality to Ben Weatherstaff’s style that reflects his steadfast character. His clothing does not change throughout the film because it does not need to. Ben is comfortable in his role, and his attire is a testament to his commitment to the garden and the manor. His style is as consistent as his dedication to his work.
Walter Sparrow’s portrayal of Ben Weatherstaff is a reminder of the authenticity that can be conveyed through costume design. His character analysis and style breakdown show a man whose clothing is a true representation of his role in the story and his connection to the earth he so lovingly cultivates.
Detail the Key Elements of their Outfit and Where to Buy Them
Finding the Edwardian Aesthetic in Modern Stores: To capture the essence of the ‘Secret Garden’ characters in today’s wardrobe, one must look for key elements that define the Edwardian aesthetic. From high collars and tailored suits to floral dresses and sturdy boots, these pieces can be found with a bit of searching. Stores like Anthropologie for the feminine touches, Brooks Brothers for classic tailoring, and even Etsy for vintage finds are great starting points.
Elements to Look For and Their Modern Equivalents:
- High-neck blouses and lace collars can be found in stores like Zara or H&M.
- Tailored waistcoats for men can be sourced from suit shops or online retailers like ASOS.
- Floral midi dresses that echo Mary’s transformation are available at Free People or ModCloth.
- Practical yet stylish boots reminiscent of Dickon’s can be picked up from Dr. Martens or Timberland.
Where to Shop for Period-Inspired Pieces: For those seeking authenticity, there are specialty stores that focus on period-inspired clothing. Websites like Historical Emporium or Recollections offer garments that capture the Edwardian spirit. For a more budget-friendly approach, thrift stores and vintage markets can be treasure troves for unique pieces that resonate with the film’s aesthetic.
How to Include Elements in Daily Outfits
Incorporating Edwardian Flair Without Looking Costumey: To incorporate elements of ‘The Secret Garden’ into daily outfits without looking like you’re attending a costume party, focus on blending period-inspired pieces with contemporary clothing. A lace collar blouse can be paired with modern high-waisted jeans, or a waistcoat can be worn over a crisp white shirt for a touch of Edwardian elegance that still feels current.
Accessorizing with a Touch of the Past: Accessories are a subtle way to nod to the film’s style. A vintage brooch, a pocket watch, or a floral hairpin can add a touch of historical charm to an otherwise modern outfit. Look for accessories that speak to the era but also fit seamlessly with today’s fashion sensibilities.
Balancing Vintage and Modern for a Cohesive Look: The key to a cohesive look is balance. If you opt for a full-skirted midi dress reminiscent of Mary’s, keep your shoes and accessories modern to anchor the outfit in the present. Conversely, if you’re donning a vintage tweed jacket like Ben’s, pair it with a contemporary shirt and trousers to avoid looking like you’ve stepped out of a time machine.
Styling Tips for Different Occasions: Get the Look
Casual Outings with a Secret Garden Twist: For a casual day out, infuse your look with the comfort and practicality of Dickon’s style. Opt for relaxed-fit trousers, a soft shirt, and durable boots. Accessorize with a leather belt and a canvas satchel to carry your essentials.
Office Attire with Edwardian Undertones: Channel Lord Craven’s polished style for the office. A well-fitted blazer and trousers, paired with a high-collared shirt and oxfords, will give you a sophisticated edge. Add a pocket square or a tie with a subtle floral pattern for a secret garden-inspired touch.
Evening Elegance Inspired by the Manor’s Inhabitants: For an evening event, draw inspiration from the elegance of Mrs. Medlock’s wardrobe. Choose a dress with structure and a defined waist, but in a modern fabric to keep it current. Complete the look with heeled boots and statement jewelry that echoes the film’s opulence.
